Why Corneotherapy Will Do More For Your Skin Than Chemical Peels

Chemical peels are all the rage right now, right? However, what impact does a chemical peel have on your skin surface and are you really going to achieve the correct skin modification goals you desire? Let me take you into a deeper dive regarding the use of chemical peels and why they are not a go-to corneotherapy modality.

Chemical peels described as acting only on the epidermis, the outer layer(s) of the skin, are called superficial peels. Chemical peels that go deeper and affect the dermis are called medium-depth or medical peels. Local Oregon health licensing laws require that basic estheticians use only superficial chemical peels.

Superficial peel sounds pretty minimal, right? However, the epidermis being only the thickness of two pieces of binder paper, includes several layers (5) of your most important regenerative and protective immune regulating cells. The epidermis also provides you with a micro-biome, pH controlled acid mantle and hydrophotic (water repellant) skin barrier to protect you against viruses, bacteria, fungi, and parasites.

Now, if you were going into a battle would you really want to take off your armor? And, unfortunately, the environmental pollution, ultraviolet rays, and other harmful substances (even those in your cosmetics) do present a battle for unprotected or damaged skin barriers. If you have dry, red, itchy, scaly or blemished skin you have a disrupted skin barrier.

A skin peel should never be conducted as a “stand alone” treatment, like a one and done appointment. This would also apply to microdermabrasion treatment or any other modality that disrupts the surface skin cells. This is where corneotherapy can assist because the true corneotherapist will use protocols and treatment products that repair and replenish your skin with biologically compatible ingredients before the damage is increased.

Corneotherapeutic products do not incorporate any non-biologically compatible substances such as emulsifiers, fragrances, dyes, preservatives, silicones, amines, or other non-bio-degradable molecules. This makes the corneotherapy product highly regarded by individuals undergoing medical procedures, chemotherapy, or suffering with other skin disrupting conditions such as rosacea, psoriasis, eczema, or acne.

The epidermal skin cells have been compared to the shingles on a roof, when damaged they create a poor barrier to outside influence or trans-epidermal water loss (dry skin). If you have a good roof, so to speak, the interior of the house is not subjected to damage. This means that just diving into a chemical peel without proper skin preparation you can end up with fussy, irritated skin that looks dryer or oilier and less healthy.

Chemical peels, in some instances can be helpful when conducted properly. The means there is adequate training and knowledge of skin type, genetics, medical history, skin conditions, skincare being applied, and your willingness to follow closely with preparation protocols and post-procedure precautions in order to facilitate proper wound healing.

If you would like to learn more about corneotherapeutic products that create a superior skin barrier contact me at www.santedermique.com. #corneotherapy#healthyskin#skinwellness#glowingskin#oncologyskincare

VITAMIN C ONE KEY INGREDIENT FOR YOUR SKIN HEALTH

Trying to figure out how to remove dark marks or red spots from your skin? Read on to find out more about how vitamin C can help brighten and repair your skin from over exposure to skin, acne breakouts, and hormone involvement. 

In the dossier of a research report from Barnet Corporation* on the form of vitamin C used in 302 Professional’s C-boost product, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, or BV-OSC, Barnet states that BV-OSC is a stable, oil-soluble form of vitamin C ester. The benefits of this form of vitamin C for the skin are its anti-oxidant activity, inhibition of lipid peroxidation, protection from UV-A and UV-B, inhibition of melanogenesis (formation of pigment cells), and stimulation of collagen production.

Barnet Corportion reported that the use of pure Vitamin C (ascorbate) is unstable and is not the most active form for collagen synthesis and anti-oxidation. It is very sensitive to light and oxygen, breaking down quickly and creating a yellowish tint in finished formulas. 

The study determined that BV-OSC has an excellent penetration to the keratinocytes (skin cells) and as a result the cytoprotection against UV-B is increased. Cell viability is increased up to 30% when BV-OSC is applied compared to pure vitamin C. The lipidic vitamin C ester used in 302 C-boost is active for 48 hours in the skin at the epidermal level.

To determine some of the findings a trial was performed on BV-OSC called a Comet Assay, which is a test for determining DNA damage and repair at the level of single cells for breaks in DNA strands, oxidative induced damage, and protein cross-linking - all biological activities that lead to skin aging and/or skin disease.

The conclusions demonstrated that the application of BV-OSC resulted in reduced UV-A damage and the reduction of the release of p53 (proteins that cause cell death or apoptosis was decreased to 10% with the application of .01% BV-OSC, and the ability to create a more even skin tone (inhibition of melanogenesis) was increased by more than 80% at levels 0.1%-0.2% BV-OSC.

BO-OSC has been determined to increase healing of red marks from acne breakouts by a significant amount. 

Human trials were completed on the use of BV-OSC on people with acne lesions. An aqueous gel with 10% BV-OSC was applied to 10 patients (16-45 years old) for 2-10 months. The results showed that 35% indicated excellent improvement, 50% indicated good improvement, while 15% indicated no change.  Most of these results indicate an improvement in post-inflammation red marks from previous acne breakouts leading to a more even skin tone after reduction of bacterial inflammation.

SUMMARY OF FINDINGS RESULTING FROM THE USE OF BV-OSC FOR ANTI-AGING and SKIN TONE

Metabolism Activation

       Cell Activation & Acceleration of collagen synthesis

Anti-Oxidation

       Prevention of lipid peroxidation

       Prevention of DNA damage

       Prevention of UV induced dell damage

Depigmentation Effect

       Inhibition of tyrosinase activity

       Inhibition of melanogenesis

*Barnet Products Corporation, Englewood Cliffs, NJ 07632

Sharing four keys points to help protect your skin this season.

#1 - Got essential fatty acids?
Good essential fatty acids are quite ESSENTIAL for healthy skin. They provide the necessary biological  ingredients to form healthy skin cells which in turn provide an optimal outside barrier for protection against losing your internal hydration. If your nails are thin or brittle and you have dry skin or scalp this may be a sign you are deficient in EFAs. The two essential fatty acids, linolenic and linoleic acid, cannot be synthesized by the body and must be obtained from other sources. The best food sources are wild salmon, roasted chia seeds, flaxseed oils, camelina oil, and walnut oil. According to the Physicians Committe for Responsible Medicine the recommended amount for adequate omega-3 intake is 1.1 and 1.6 grams per day for women and men over the age of 14, respectively. (For more in-depth information see Physicians Committee

#2 - Doing great with your H20?
Many sources discuss the need for 6-8 eight ounce glasses of water daily, after all a person would not be able to survive long without it. It's quite necessary for skin since it provides the way in which the enzymatic reactions occur that develop normal skin cells and allow them to fall away adequately.  There is a tendency to become more dependent on moisturizers for additional protection as our water deficiencies increase. Under normal conditions the skin requires very little additional moisturizer. 

#3 - What will holiday goodies mean to my skin? 
Sugar is the culprit for many bodily and skin reactions. Glycation is the cross-linking of protein molecules with sugar molecules. The new sugar proteins are called advanced glycation end products (AGEs). These end products are not recognize as normal, and the body will produce antibodies that in turn can cause inflammation in the skin. Once formed, AGEs tend to gravitate toward dermal collagen and elastin and are responsible for creating stiffness of the skin. Enjoying those holiday goodies in "just a taste" fashion will help reduce the amount of cumulative damage to your skin. (For more information on glycation following this link to - http://www.skininc.com/skinscience/physiology/230102271.html?utm_source=Most+Read&utm_medium=website&utm_campaign=Most+Read

#4 - What's the best skincare routine for winter? 
I guess we all know that protection is the key. Increasing water intake/EFA's and reducing sugar intake as noted above will assist you in producing normal skin cells, which provide a natural protective barrier for your skin. Physical barriers such as lip balms, lipid based moisturizers, and protective clothing shelter your skin against the changes in cold temperatures.

The masque application is perhaps the most overlooked skincare routine. Working a hydrating masque or lipid based (avocado) masque into your weekly routine can greatly reduce the risk of moisture loss leading to chapping and flaking skin. Try putting on a masque, fix yourself a warm beverage, sip and enjoy, remove masque, and your done!

Moisturizers are a greater need as the indoor heaters/outside barometric changes tends to pull the moisture from our bodies. Check ingredients for comedone causing ingredients or hazardous chemicals though, or better yet choose a product line with little to no preservatives and naturally occurring lipids to enhance the skin barrier components. 

What’s Natural and What’s Not? Should you care?

I was online this morning checking out an article written by a New York firm, The Young Group. It was interesting to me because they started their discussion with the fact that “74% of consumers of traditional beauty products admit they don't know the difference between a natural product and an organic product. 54% don't care (The Benchmarking Company).”

We are all certainly aware of the hype today in the cosmetic industry about natural is better as a sales tool for their cosmetics and skincare products. It is a common argument of deciding what is truly “organic” and what does “natural” mean. The Young Group produced the following definition of organic as follows:

“USDA 100% organic is only for products that are purely organic, meaning their ingredients are grown without pesticides or synthetic fertilizers. "Organic" products have at least 95% organically produced ingredients, while those that contain at least 70% organic ingredients may use the phrase "made with organic ingredients."

While many are stating that their products are organic, the Natural Products Association (NPS) is quoted by Karen Young as suggesting that “little as 20% of the products in the natural personal care market are truly natural.”

According to the makers of 302 Skincare the ingredients used are a bit more than 90% organic and “completely 100% preservative free,” which places them in a class mostly by themselves. The products are stabilized by the use of numerous organically grown/verified ingredients that assist in stabilizing the product via their own organic constituents. To find out more about this truly organic skincare line check out the products by inputting your email address here. 

http://www.specialchem4cosmetics.com/markets/skin-care/editorials.aspx?id=4276

To Peel or not to Peel, that is the Question?

I have been exploring the two most current methodologies for repairing the skin surface and restoring skin to a more "youthful" condition. Youthful skin is defined by its smooth appearance, even tone, adequate moisture content appearing as "plumpness," and somewhat of a luminescence or reflective shine from intact surface cells that create a bounce back of light.

One school of thought states that increasing the cell turnover through continuous application of acidic, or low pH solutions, such as alpha hydroxy or beta hydroxy acids (lactic, glycolic and mandelic, or salicylic, etc), will cause the skin surface to desquamate (shed) at the same rate of a chronologically younger skin and, therefore, renew stronger cells that have a youthful appearance and result in a skin surface as described above.

A second school of thought states that by continuously reinforcing an abnormal acid level on the skin surface you create a continual inflammatory response and the skin is stressed by attempting to regain the normal pH, which results in a disrupted external skin barrier. The disruption of the external skin barrier in turn increases moisture loss from the epidermis resulting in dryness, increased problems from UV exposure resulting from thinning cell layers, and this promotes advanced cross-linking of skin fibers resulting in wrinkles.

As with many things in life, moderation of both may be the optimal approach to anti-aging. If you are going to proceed with an invasive procedure such as laser treatments, deeper chemical peeling, or facial surgery, it is wise to prepare your skin weeks to months in advance to achieve the best results. This preparation would likely include reducing to eliminating other barrier disruptive processes such as continual acidic exfoliation methods and replace those with procedures that assist the skin in thickening, add anti-oxidants, and seek to re-establish a protective barrier and fully reduce inflammation. Most estheticians, as skincare specialists, are specifically trained to provide the methods needed to help our clients achieve the maximum results from any medically-based procedures they are intending to have. Estheticians are there to provide deeper skin conditioning and help you monitor your at-home use of products, so that your skin is getting the most optimal anti-aging care either pre- or post medical treatment.

Acne Facts

Acne is about too many cells, which build up in the soft tissue in small spaces in the skin known as hair follicles. This increasing accumulation of cells eventually mixes with other components in the follicle and builds a plug so that the opening is blocked and there is no exit to the surface of the skin. Without the normal capability to move the oil and cells to the surface these cells they continue to accumulate, the follicle swells, various biological triggers occur creating inflammation, and this becomes that dreaded pimple!

Science has come a long way in discovering the mechanisms of skin cell regeneration and what occurs to create the responses that happen to develop acne, but not all of the facts to undo this malfunction of the cells are known. We do know that it can be controlled through proper exfoliation to help normalize the skin cell turnover and that by clearing the debris collected in the follicle it reduces the chance that it will advance to a larger impaction and create an unsightly blemish possibly leading to scarring. The most important factor in the control of acne is to minimize permanent scarring from the inflammatory activity that results when acne is left untreated.

Under normal skin conditions the sebum (oil) produced in the pore spreads out over the skin and provides an acidic pH. This is known as the “acid mantle” and is a protective barrier preventing the invasion of viruses or bacteria in the environment. Therefore, the oil provides a beneficial skin function under the right conditions.

Acne can be either non-inflamed or inflamed, create whiteheads or blackheads, pustules or large painful nodules or cysts. Each of these is treated differently with respect to product approach and skin treatments. The first order of treatment in my esthetic practice approach is to bring the inflamed acne under control. Techniques that kill bacteria deep in the skin such as Blue LED and the use of high frequency current reduce the breakouts. Extraction of blocked follicles that appear as blackheads or whiteheads can be relieved and allow for the normal transfer of oil and healing of the expanded follicles.

Much of what medicine has offered for acne has not proven to be effective over a long term, and often the treatment with antibiotics and Accutane has resulted in long-term and serious side effects for some individuals.

It is my understanding from review of what nutritionists offer is that the over development of skin cells based on lack of certain vitamins or minerals, stress creating adrenaline release and resulting hormone imbalances, and certain environmental factors can all be directly correlated with the development of acne. I encourage a multifaceted approach looking at diet and lifestyle to also coincide with my acne treatments and homecare products.